cutting board confessional

chewing the fat

When annoying people produce superior recipes…

So this upcoming Le Grand Cirque gig is interesting because I’m told—per the rider—that my clients are comprised of “27 Asian and 15 Western” individuals. Well thanks. That really clears things up. I get what the “Western” part refers to: those are the people who eat all the Twinkies. But considering Asia includes places like Mongolia and Lebanon and India, you’re not really defining the cuisine you’re shooting for, people. Sure, you’ve indicated you’re seeking four entrees with “mostly Oriental influences,” but—in addition to being a term often regarded as offensive by many Asians I know—“Oriental” means characteristic of Asia. So really, we’re back to square one, aren’t we?

Well, I’ve decided to lean a little bit on the most Western Asian chef I know, Ming Tsai, who—despite his extremely irritating on-screen affect—has one skill I can’t knock: that guy can identify authentic Asian dishes that are completely and utterly inoffensive to the pickiest Western palate. I remember printing off a recipe in the 90s for his “Lion’s Head Stew”, when he had a cooking show on the still-wet-behind-the-ears Food Network. I’m figuring that if Ming Tsai thought the naive home foodies of the 90s would be into this stuff, then it’s probably pretty benign. In my business, benign is good, because if we can be all things to all people in a general sense, it gives us extra time to be something special to certain people when it really matters. And in tour catering, certain people are usually looking for something special at some point during the day…usually when I’m trying to get the food out.

Lion’s Head Stew is basically a ginger-scallion pork meatball in a light broth with Napa Cabbage and black mushrooms. Does. Not. Suck. It’s filling, especially when you pour it over a little rice in the bottom of your bowl. If someone likes wonton soup, they’ll like Lion’s Head Stew. So pretty much the whole world likes this dish.

I’m glad that the tour threw me a loop, because I haven’t thought about this dish for a long time. Part of that is because I try not to think about Ming Tsai, but I suppose that’s a mistake. I obviously turned to him when I needed something specific, so perhaps he’s not so bad after all.

Get the recipe here: http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/ming-tsai/lions-head-stew-recipe/index.html

If you’re actually going to make this, choose leaner minced pork—I use 80-20—and add the scallion-ginger water slowly until you get a workable meatball-y consistency. The recipe as written is a little, uh, touched.

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